A Guide to Antique Jewellery: Eras, Styles and What to Look For

Antique jewellery offers something that modern jewellery simply cannot replicate: a genuine connection to the past.

From the romance and symbolism of Victorian jewellery to the refined craftsmanship of the Edwardian period, antique pieces reflect the fashions, techniques and social influences of the time in which they were made.

For collectors and jewellery lovers alike, understanding these different periods can make choosing an antique piece even more rewarding.

In this guide, we explore some of the most important eras in antique jewellery, the characteristics to look for and what makes original period jewellery so special.

What Is Antique Jewellery?

The terms antique and vintage are often used interchangeably, but they don't mean exactly the same thing.

Generally, jewellery is described as antique when it is more than 100 years old. Vintage jewellery is typically younger, although the term covers a broad range of jewellery from previous decades.

This means that many Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian pieces can confidently be described as antique, while jewellery from periods such as the mid-20th century is more commonly considered vintage. Age, however, is only part of the appeal.

An antique piece can tell us about the materials, techniques and design preferences of another era. Details that might appear purely decorative today may once have carried significant meaning.

Georgian Jewellery

The Georgian era, spanning the reigns of Kings George I through George IV, produced some of the most desirable antique jewellery available today.

Surviving pieces are relatively scarce. Much of the jewellery was handmade, meaning even apparently similar pieces can have noticeable differences.

Typical Georgian jewellery can include:

• Rose-cut and old-cut diamonds
• Coloured gemstones
• Foil-backed stones
• Floral and natural motifs
• Elaborate metalwork
• Mourning jewellery
• Closed-back gemstone settings

Because of its age and relative rarity, genuine Georgian jewellery is particularly appealing to serious collectors.

Victorian Jewellery

The Victorian era covered Queen Victoria's long reign from 1837 to 1901 and witnessed enormous changes in jewellery design.

Victorian jewellery is particularly diverse because fashions evolved significantly throughout the period. Romantic motifs such as flowers, hearts, bows, snakes and symbols of affection were popular, while later Victorian pieces could become considerably more elaborate.

Gemstones commonly encountered in Victorian jewellery include diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, garnets, turquoise and pearls.

Snake jewellery is one particularly recognisable Victorian style. Following Prince Albert's gift of a snake engagement ring to Queen Victoria, the serpent became closely associated with eternal love.

Today, original Victorian rings, brooches, bangles and pendants remain highly sought after.

Edwardian Jewellery

The Edwardian period brought a noticeably lighter and more delicate aesthetic.

Platinum became increasingly important in fine Edwardian jewellery, allowing skilled jewellers to create intricate settings that could securely hold gemstones while appearing remarkably fine. Diamonds and pearls were particularly fashionable.

Look closely at a fine Edwardian jewel and you may discover garlands, bows, ribbons, flowers and lace-like arrangements produced with extraordinary attention to detail.

This combination of elegance and craftsmanship has helped Edwardian jewellery remain desirable more than a century later.

Art Nouveau Jewellery

Art Nouveau developed around the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries.

Rather than concentrating solely on the intrinsic value of gemstones, Art Nouveau jewellers frequently treated the entire jewel as a piece of art.

Nature provided enormous inspiration. Flowers, leaves, insects and flowing organic shapes appeared alongside romantic representations of the female form. Enamel was also used to extraordinary effect.

Original Art Nouveau jewellery can therefore look dramatically different from the more geometric jewellery that followed.

What About Art Deco Jewellery?

Beginning around the 1920s, Art Deco introduced a striking new visual language. Geometry, symmetry and contrast became increasingly prominent. Diamonds were frequently combined with sapphires, emeralds, rubies and onyx, while platinum was widely used in fine Art Deco jewellery pieces.

The Vintage Jeweller regularly sources jewellery from this remarkable period, including original rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings.

Old Cut Diamonds in Antique Jewellery

One of the great pleasures of antique diamond jewellery is discovering historic diamond cuts.

Before modern precision cutting techniques, diamonds were shaped individually by craftsmen. Old mine cuts and old European cuts can therefore have a very different character from modern brilliant-cut diamonds.

Rather than expecting every stone to look identical, slight variations are part of their appeal. These diamonds can display broader flashes of light and a distinctive appearance that works beautifully with antique settings.

Why Buy Antique Jewellery?

For many buyers, individuality is one of the biggest attractions.

Rather than choosing something produced in large quantities, an antique jewel may have survived for generations before finding its next owner.

Craftsmanship is another consideration. Techniques such as hand engraving, milgrain detailing and intricate pierced metalwork can be found across exceptional period pieces.

There is also an environmental argument for choosing jewellery that already exists. Buying antique and pre-owned jewellery allows an existing piece to continue its story rather than requiring an entirely new item to be produced.

What Should You Look for When Buying Antique Jewellery?

Buying antique jewellery requires a slightly different approach to purchasing something new.

Consider:

Condition
Some evidence of age is perfectly natural, but the overall condition of the piece remains important.

Craftsmanship
Examine the quality of the setting, metalwork and decorative details.

Gemstones
Older jewellery frequently contains historic cuts and stones with characteristics quite different from modern jewellery.

Alterations
Jewellery can be modified throughout its lifetime. Understanding whether a piece remains in its original form can be important.

Wearability
Some antique pieces are surprisingly practical for everyday wear, while particularly delicate jewellery may be better reserved for occasional use.

Most importantly, buy from a specialist who understands period jewellery and can properly describe what you are purchasing.

Discover Antique Jewellery in Hatton Garden

The Vintage Jeweller is based in London's historic Hatton Garden jewellery quarter.

With more than 40 years of experience within the jewellery trade, our collection has been developed through decades of sourcing distinctive antique, vintage and pre-owned jewellery.

Every piece is individually selected, meaning our collection is constantly changing as jewellery is sold and new discoveries arrive. Follow us on our Instagram to see particularly special pieces we find.

Whether you're searching for an antique engagement ring, Victorian pendant, Edwardian diamond jewel or simply something you are unlikely to see anywhere else, explore our latest collection of antique and vintage jewellery online.